Chinese shoe companies encounter German technical trade barriers
Chinese shoe manufacturers have not yet won the EU anti-dumping tax lawsuit regarding Chinese leather shoes. Now, they may face new technical trade barriers as Germany prepares to implement stricter regulations. Recently, Germany's Federal Ministry of Food, Agriculture, and Consumer Protection issued TBT No. 11, an amendment to the Commodity Act that restricts the use of chrome tanning in leather production and limits the sale of leather products that come into contact with human skin. This includes items such as bags, backpacks, textiles, straps, shoes, and toys. According to the new regulation, hexavalent chromium must not be detected in the final product, and the rule is expected to take effect this year.
This regulation could significantly impact the export of Chinese shoes. In response, several Chinese shoe companies expressed confidence in overcoming these challenges by leveraging their experience in dealing with various technical barriers and through better coordination among industry players.
Chen Zhanguang, deputy secretary-general of the China Leather Industry Association, told *First Financial Daily* that this is a technical barrier, which acts as a double-edged sword for Chinese shoe companies. On one hand, it may increase production costs, but on the other hand, it also encourages Chinese leather companies to invest more in research and development.
Chen emphasized the importance of understanding the role of chrome tanning agents. He explained that trivalent chromium is commonly used in leather processing instead of hexavalent chromium. These two forms of chromium have very different properties: trivalent chromium is inert, stable, and even considered an essential trace element, while hexavalent chromium is toxic. Although some trivalent chromium may convert to hexavalent chromium during transportation or storage under certain conditions, the amount is minimal and poses no real health risk.
He noted that the issue of hexavalent chromium in leather remains controversial, with ongoing debates about detection methods, acceptable limits, and potential harm. Errors in testing can sometimes lead to false positives. The chrome tanning method has been in use for over 100 years and has been proven safe. Currently, 85% of global leather is processed using trivalent chromium, which offers excellent strength, softness, and resistance to heat and moisture. It is widely used across the world, including in major leather-producing countries like Italy.
The German regulation will affect all EU member states, and Chen urged authorities to consider practical implementation. He also highlighted that global leather companies, including those in China, are actively working on solutions to prevent trivalent chromium from oxidizing into hexavalent chromium. Even leading countries like Italy and Spain have not yet fully resolved this issue.
Many shoe companies interviewed by the reporter said they have not yet received specific testing requirements from German customers. They believe that as long as the new standards are implemented reasonably, Chinese shoes can meet the requirements.
Guo Weiwen, secretary general of the Guangdong Footwear Federation, noted that in recent years, safety requirements for footwear have become increasingly strict worldwide. Standards are becoming more detailed, especially for children's shoes, where monitoring is particularly rigorous. Most companies now focus on detecting various chemical components, which increases production costs. However, through continuous R&D improvements and scaling up production, Chinese shoe companies can manage these additional expenses.
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