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popover sundress tutorial
I absolutely adore sewing the Popover Sundress. It's hands down my favorite pattern from Oliver + S. Over the past few years, I've made more than seventy of these dresses! If you're new to sewing garments, this is the ideal project to dive into. Plus, did you know this pattern is available as a free download? Just follow the link above to grab your copy.
Today, we’re going to walk through the step-by-step instructions complete with loads of photos for those of us who prefer visual guidance. Let’s get started.
**Note:** These instructions are specifically for the girls' version with ½ inch seam allowances. The doll version follows the same process but uses ¼ inch seam allowances instead.
**Attaching the Yoke and Dress Construction**
1) Place one yoke piece on top of a dress panel, aligning the right side of the yoke with the wrong side of the dress panel. You'll notice that the top of the dress panel is slightly curved—this helps the dress flare outward at the front and back rather than just at the sides. Stitch the yoke to the dress panel using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2) Once stitched, press the seam flat to set the stitches, then press the seam allowances towards the yoke.
3) Fold and press the opposite edge of the yoke ½ inch towards the wrong side.
4) Fold the yoke over the seam allowances to the right side of the dress panel, ensuring that the folded edge covers the previous stitching. Press the yoke flat, then edge stitch it from the right side of the dress.
*Pro Tip:* Before pinning and stitching the yoke, slide some rickrack or lace beneath the edge. It’s an excellent way to add a touch of flair to the dress.
5) Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the second yoke and dress panel.
6) With the right sides together and edges aligned, pin the two dress panels together at the side seams. Join the seams with a ½ inch seam allowance, pressing the seam allowances open afterward. Finish the edges however you prefer.
*Pro Tip:* For a more polished look, consider using French seams instead of regular ones.
**Preparing and Attaching the Sundress Straps**
1) Fold one strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and lightly press to create a center crease. Be cautious not to stretch the bias-cut strap while pressing.
2) Open the folded strap and lay it flat, wrong side up. Fold one long raw edge inward toward the center crease and press.
3) Turn the dress inside out. Locate the center of the strap by folding it in half and matching the short ends. Pin the strap to the armhole, positioning the strap’s center at the side seam and working toward the yoke. Ensure the raw unfolded edge of the strap aligns with the raw edge of the armhole. Join the strap and armhole with a ½ inch seam allowance. Take your time on the curved part, being mindful not to stretch the armhole as you sew.
4) Press the strap toward the seam allowances of the armhole. At the point where the strap extends beyond the yoke, fold the raw edge inward toward the center crease, similar to what was done in step 2.
5) Fold and press the short ends of the strap about ½ inch toward the wrong side. Refold the strap in half, pinning it so the raw edges are enclosed within the center fold.
6) Refold the strap at the armhole so it wraps over the seam allowances to the right side of the dress. From the right side, pin the strap’s folded edge to cover the seam line from step 3.
7) Working from the right side of the dress, edge stitch the strap starting at one end, following the strap around the armhole, and up the other end. Rotate at the corners for a clean finish.
**Hemming the Dress**
1) Sew a basting stitch 5/8 inch from the dress’s raw bottom edge. This will serve as the fold line for the hem.
2) Fold and press the fabric’s raw edge to the wrong side along the basting line.
3) Tuck the raw edge inside the fold to meet the basting stitches, creating a narrow hem. Press and then edgestitch the fold to secure the hem.
4) Remove the basting stitches from the fold line.
We’d love to see your beautiful Popover Sundress creations! Share them with us in our linky party.
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