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customizing the layette: sleeveless bodysuit tutorial
Today we’re thrilled to have Cherie join us with a fantastic tutorial on how to transform the Lullaby Layette bodysuit—or any bodice pattern—into a sleeveless version using bias tape. Welcome, Cherie!
Hi there! I’m Cherie from you & mie, and I’m absolutely delighted to be here! I adore Oliver + S patterns, and I often share my projects on my blog. However, this is my first time contributing to their official blog, and I’m super excited about it! In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to adapt a sleeved pattern into a sleeveless design while finishing the armholes with bias tape. For this example, I’ll be using the Lullaby Layette Shirt pattern (View B), but you can apply this technique to almost any pattern!

The very first step involves narrowing the width of your pattern at the shoulder. Patterns designed for sleeves usually extend to the tip of the shoulder, whereas sleeveless tops typically have narrower straps. The exact amount you'll need to reduce depends on your personal preference, but remember that you'll lose another 3/8 inch (1 cm) when you finish the armhole. For my 3-6 month size shirt pattern, I removed 3/4 inch from the outside edge of the pattern (at the shoulder tip, not the neckline). Then, I drew a curved line from the shoulder seam to meet the existing curve. On the front piece, I curved the line a bit more, while on the back, I kept it slightly straighter. Once you’ve drawn your new lines, simply cut your pattern along those.
When cutting your fabric, don’t forget to cut two strips of fabric on the bias to finish your armholes. These won’t be visible from the outside, so you can either use your main fabric or a coordinating fabric. To determine the length of your bias strips, measure the armhole edges (both front and back) and add 3-4 inches. The width should be 1 inch.

I’ll refer to these strips as “binding†from now on.
Once you've followed your pattern instructions up to sewing the shoulder seams and side seams together, it’s time to work on the armholes. Fold and press each binding strip 1/4 inch towards the wrong side along the long edge. Repeat this for both strips.
With the garment right side out, begin pinning the raw (unfolded) edge of your binding to the armhole, aligning the right sides together. Start at the side seam and leave at least an inch of the binding strip extending past the side seam before you start pinning.

Continue pinning all the way around the armhole. Make a small mark on the binding where it meets the side seam. Do the same on the other side of the binding—this is where you’ll want to sew the two ends together so they’ll meet along the side seam.
Pull the bias tape away from the garment (you might need to unpin a few inches) and sew the bias tape, wrong sides together, at the marks you made earlier. Trim any excess fabric, press the seam open, and pin it back to the armhole at the side seam.

Sew all the way around the armhole, 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the edge. Press the binding away from the shirt.
Turn your garment inside out. Refold your binding along the previously pressed 1/4 inch fold, and then fold it again along the seam. This will flip the binding completely to the inside of the garment and enclose the raw edge. Pin all the way around the armhole.

Machine stitch around the armhole close to the folded edge. Alternatively, you can hand-stitch it, which will make it less visible from the right side of the shirt.
Repeat the steps to attach the binding to the other armhole. Give it one last good press, and you're done!

I absolutely love creating sleeveless tops for my kids and myself, especially during the warmer spring and summer months. This method works beautifully for any top pattern! For this post, I made another Lullaby Layette Shirt for my daughter, but this time I shortened the shirt and added a gathered skirt to turn it into a sweet spring dress. You can find more details about that project on my blog.
Thank you so much for having me, Oliver + S!
This method is incredibly versatile and can be used to refresh any pattern you have lying around. If you give it a try, I’d love to see what you create!
**Pro Tip:** Always test your bias binding on a scrap piece of fabric before applying it to your final garment. It helps ensure that everything fits perfectly and looks polished.
Happy sewing!