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cinema/hide-and-seek dress sew-along, day 4
Welcome to Day Four of the Cinema/Hide-and-Seek Dress Sew-Along! Today, we're focusing on completing the Hide-and-Seek Dress. Each of the two dresses requires a slightly different approach when it comes to attaching the sleeves and finishing up. So, we'll cover the method for the Hide-and-Seek Dress today, and don't forget to check back tomorrow for instructions on the Cinema Dress.
Let's start by preparing the sleeves. First, sew two rows of gathering stitches—3/8 inch and 5/8 inch from the raw edge—on one sleeve, making sure to leave enough thread tails at both ends for adjustments. These stitches will help gather the sleeve to match the armhole. Repeat the process for the second sleeve. It's important to note that the sleeve cap has a center notch, which will come in handy later when you’re aligning and pinning the sleeve to the dress.
Now, let's move on to attaching the sleeves and sewing the side seams. Align the raw edge of the sleeve with the raw edge of the dress's armhole, ensuring the right sides are facing each other. Use the gathered threads to adjust the sleeve to fit the armhole smoothly, making sure the gathers are evenly distributed. Once you've pinned the sleeve in place, sew it to the armhole with a 1/2-inch seam, reinforcing the ends with a backstitch. Afterward, finish the seam allowances as per your preference and press them towards the sleeve. Don’t forget to repeat these steps for the second sleeve. Once the sleeves are attached, remove any visible basting stitches from the sleeve caps.
Next, position the dress front and back together, aligning the right sides and matching the underarm seams, notches, and hem edges. Sew the side seams and join them with the sleeves in one continuous 1/2-inch seam. Press the seam allowances open and finish them accordingly. Repeat the process for the other side seam.
Now, let’s focus on finishing the sleeves. Begin by folding the cuff in half, right sides together, and pin the short ends. Sew the raw edges with a 1/2-inch seam to form a tube, then press the seam allowance open. Next, open the tube and fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Baste the raw edges together 3/8 inch from the edges.
Turn the dress right-side out and slide the cuff inside the sleeve, aligning the raw edges with the side seams and notches. Pin the cuff to the sleeve’s wrong side along the hem’s raw edges and sew it in place with a 1/2-inch seam. Finish the seam allowances and pull the cuff away from the sleeve to press the seam allowance from the wrong side. Understitch the seam allowance from the wrong side of the sleeve and fold the cuff over to the right side of the sleeve. Finally, tack the folded edge of the cuff to the sleeve at the underarm seam either by hand or machine.
For the final step in finishing the dress, hem the garment by sewing a basting stitch 5/8 inch from the bottom edge. Fold and press the raw edge to the basting line on the wrong side, then fold it again to enclose the raw edge and create a narrow hem. Remove the basting stitches and sew buttons onto the wearer’s left yoke at the marked positions.
If you’ve been sewing a Hide-and-Seek Dress, you’re all done! We’d love to see photos of your completed dress in the Oliver + S Patterns Flickr group. Head over there and share your creation!
We’ll see you tomorrow for Day Five, where we’ll wrap up the Cinema Dress. Until then, happy sewing!
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I hope this detailed guide helps you complete your Hide-and-Seek Dress successfully. Let me know if you have any questions or need further clarification on any step!