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melanie’s scrappy yanaka jacket
Fabric selection plays a crucial role in determining the final look of a pattern. Whether you're drawn to solids or prints, you'll appreciate the artful mix of patterns showcased in this piece. Melanie, who's part of the Advisor’s Circle, is generously sharing her vibrant and eclectic Yananka jacket.
The Yananka jacket caught my eye for quite some time now! Its silhouette and relaxed design are simply irresistible. I tend to favor cropped or shorter jackets, which usually flatter my figure better, so I knew this would be the perfect project for me. While quilted jackets are trending, I ultimately decided that a straightforward scrappy jacket without quilting would suit my style best.
I believe this pattern offers an excellent opportunity for print mixing. With its center back seam, sleeve gussets, and facings that can be displayed when the collar is folded down, there are plenty of chances to incorporate smaller fabric pieces and highlight those charming leftover scraps. Luckily, I have quite a collection of such remnants! My sewing projects often involve cottons and linens, so I rummaged through my scrap bins and picked out some larger remnants. After trying numerous combinations, I settled on five floral prints that harmonize well in terms of color tones and scale. Deciding on their arrangement was the next challenge!
To ensure the best outcome, I carefully planned the placement of each fabric piece. However, given that these fabrics were relatively lightweight and fluid, the Yananka pattern suggests using medium to heavyweight fabrics for structure. To address this, I interfaced all the pieces with a medium-weight fusible interfacing before beginning the construction process. This decision was essential for maintaining the sharpness of the standing collar, front points, and the small back notch—elements that couldn't afford to be floppy. By interfacing beforehand, I could confidently utilize these specific scraps.
Although I didn’t make significant alterations to the pattern itself, there were a few tweaks. Initially, I shortened the sleeves slightly more than intended. In the end, I opted against removing additional length with a wide hem, so I crafted a 2-inch wide sleeve facing from the same cotton used for the sleeve gussets (which remained non-interfaced). Hemming the sleeves this way provided a clean surface for attaching the lining. For future projects, I’ve adjusted the sleeve pattern to avoid making the same mistake.
In addition to the sleeve modifications, I also created a lining for the jacket. Although the original pattern is unlined, I felt that the interfaced interior components deserved a polished finish. Consequently, I finished all seams with a quick pass of the pinking shears, knowing they'd remain hidden. To enhance mobility, I incorporated a half-inch center-back pleat, and even the lining was made from scraps.
One notable change I didn’t make involved the jacket’s body length. Typically, I shorten garments above the waist, but this time, I was pleased with the finished length and didn’t want it to appear overly cropped. Leaving it as drafted resulted in a jacket I truly adore. It’s incredibly comfortable, and the fit is spot-on. The Yananka pattern provided the perfect opportunity to showcase some of my stunning print scraps, creating a truly unique jacket. The design lines were tailor-made for this kind of creativity!
The final result exceeded my expectations. It’s a testament to how fabric choices can transform a pattern into something extraordinary. If you’re considering this project, don’t hesitate—it’s a fantastic way to breathe new life into your fabric stash while crafting a standout piece. Happy sewing!
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I hope this rewritten version captures the essence of the original while offering a fresh perspective. Let me know if you'd like further adjustments or additions!